Why do I love Ontario E.? Because it's dirty. It's real. It's a thriving little community whose inhabitants make their own rules. Though it's close to the city, no one gentrified it. Maybe because Ontario E. is far too complicated...
Choose a glaring day in late spring to walk Ontario E. At times unnerving in a beautiful way, it's as close as you can get to a trip to the carnival. The real carnival. Start at Amherst and follow it all the way to Frontenac.
Walking West to East, here are some of my favourite stops:
1. The Spirit LoungePossibly the most flamboyant restaurant in the city. Obey the house rules, or be banned for life.
2. Pat and RobertAround Ontario E. and Plessis, big-haired couple Pat and Robert have built a small empire: cigar shop, hair salon, shoe store... each a temple to their collective obsessions. Don't forget to visit the Tabagie -- it's amazing. Bring along your granddad...
3. The valley of the tattoo artistsOne day I counted 13 tattoo parlours along Ontario E., between Amherst and Frontenac. A week later, there could have been 15, or 10. Not sure I would go there to get a tat. But apparently lots of folks do.
4. Hub cap palaceNear the intersection of DeLorimer and Ontario E. there lives a poem to the noble, lost hubcab... each shiny disk lovingly displayed like trinkets in a magpie's nest. It's dazzling. How could anyone love hubcaps this much?
5. The truly fantastic flea marketIt's not fantastic because of what you can find there. It's fantastic because it's there at all. Upstairs used to be the home of a gentleman who was perfect blend of Lindsay Lohan and David Lee Roth. Awesome.
There are so many more gems... the Buddhist temple with astonishing white statuary, two cavernous, almost barn-like churches re-inhabited by newly-arrived Montrealers, innumerable ambiguously named massage parlours (rub and tug, anyone?).
And if you go further East, past Frontenac, under the railway bridge and even past the giant (sugar?) refinery, you'll get to the precious Promenade Ontario -- a thriving commercial strip, loved by the locals and largely forgotten by the rest of the city.
Oh... Ontario East... Never change...